Seven Castles

Shikumen

                                      

June 9, 2008

 

As the result of urban life, shikumen (literally "stone gate") is a style of housing in Shanghai, prevalent in the 1920s. The style once composed 80% of Shanghai's local residences, and bred the spirit of Shanghai's middle class. Even by the year of 2003, nearly 40% of Shanghai's residents still live in shikumen residences.

 

Shikumen houses are two or three-story, brick-and-wood townhouses that have sloping roofs, dormer windows, and front yard protected by a high brick wall. Each residence is connected and arranged in straight alleys. Their gates consist of two black, lacquered door planks, each of which is placed on a wooden axis so they can open and close. The name "shikumen" refers to the strong gateway to each house.

 

Shikumen is a cultural blend of the elements found in Western architecture with traditional Lower Yangtze Chinese architecture and social behavior. All traditional Chinese dwellings had a courtyard, and the shikumen was no exception. Yet, to compromise with its urban nature, it was much smaller and provided an "interior haven" to the commotions in the streets, allowing for raindrops to fall and vegetation to grow freely within a residence. The courtyard also allowed sunlight and adequate ventilation into the rooms.

 

This style of housing originally developed when local developers adapted terrace houses to Chinese conditions. The wall was added to protect against fighting and looting during the Taiping Rebellion, and later burglars and vandals during the social upheavals of the early twentieth century. Many of these were hastily built and were akin to slums, while others were of sturdier construction and featured all modern amenities such as the flush toilet.

 

In the 1930s, shikumen residences were homes on lanes that had unique traits in Shanghai. On those lanes, which spread out in all directions, were also hostels, workshops, newspapers' offices and snack booths. Cobblers, barbers, fortunetellers and various other people, who worked outdoors, also moved to those lanes. Most of those people were migrants, who relocated from other parts of the country. At the mouth of each lane, with shikumen residences, was generally a one-room grocery store, which sold cigarettes, bathroom tissue and wine.

 

To ensure the space was well utilized, shikumen residences had two characteristics: tingzijian and guojielou. Tingzijian is the small, poorly lit back room between two flights of stairs, usually between the first and second floors or the second and third floors. These rooms are narrow and they have low ceilings. Also, they are very hot especially in summer. In comparison, guojielou rooms are slightly better. These rooms were built across the lane, and they looked as though they were suspended in the air.

 

During and after World War II, massive population increases in Shanghai led many shikumen houses to be heavily subdivided. For example, the spacious living room is often divided into three or four rooms, each lent out to a family. These cramped conditions continue to exist in many of the shikumen districts that have survived recent development.

 

The landlords who leased the shikumen out to other families were called "second landlord" as many of them acquired the shikumen buildings from its original owner. These landlords' families usually share the same shikumen building with the tenants.

 

Shikumen is considered an important part of Shanghai's culture. But given the city's continuous development, shikumen residences, once so prominent, no longer meet residents' demands. With the exception of some residences deemed to be of outstanding construction, and, as a result, listed for protection, many shikumen have been demolished to make way for new buildings.

 

As most of the shikumen residences are located downtown，some clever businessmen have turned them into tourist attractions, by promoting their distinct history and culture. Xintiandi is just one example. These businessmen have transformed the shikumen's functions from residences to commercial properties. Now, with their original style and external appearance, the shikumen have been turned into bars, tea houses, boutiques and recreational centers, where people have meals, shop and relax Some have been renovated and turned into cultural facilities, such as galleries, cinemas, a museum of Chinese history of stamps, and a showroom that reappears the life of a local family in a shikumen residence.

【作者: zhangliping】【访问统计:】【2008年06月9日 星期一 05:26】【注册】【打印】